Monday, 15 November 2010

Lima, a tale of two sides of the city

We arrived wearily in Lima last night about 7, complete with a full count of baggage including some unwelcome ones under our eyes!
After coming through customs and getting lucky on whether we needed to have our bags searched or not, we were confronted with hundreds of taxi and bus drivers (all fairy short and very dark) touting for business, but the thing I will never forget is the look on their faces, when they saw a 6ft 5” pasty bloke walking through. As we walked across the airport trying to find a toilet I could sense people pointing out my height to friends, then one taxi driver came to our rescue and decided that he knew the best route to the toilet. Leah left me in his capable company when she had a pee.
After two minutes of his company Ivan and I were the best of friends, he was not only going to take us to our hotel, he was also going to take us for a tour of the part of Lima we’re staying in. (Read – the long way around, with a few of the sight and sounds…) We discussed money and it was agreed that $25 would be the fare.
After two mins in Ivans taxi, I did like my dad use to tell me and put my seatbelt on pretty quickly. Jesus Christ, I thought my mother had a penchant for late braking and lane wandering but this guy took the biscuit, but after 30mins in his cab I quickly realised you must have to drive like this to exist in Lima as everyone was at it! After 30mins of speed bumps, lane swapping to find the fastest lane and cheating a few red lights Ivan is telling us about his kids, his elderly mother and if we liked to see them live, him being tipped well would help! He did however, give us some useful tips, such as: watch for the money you’re given as there’s a lot of them are fake, don’t go into central Lima during the night and we’d be okay. After dropping us off at our hotel, Ivan thought that our $5 dollar tip wasn’t too generous, to which my reply of: “That’s all you’re having butt!” Was met with a smile and a handshake from Ivan and he sped off to feed his extended family on a $5. (Incidentally – I have found out today that tipping in taxi’s isn’t expected and that you can get shit loads in Norky’s chicken take away for a $5 – Prick….)
With a few hours before we should go to bed, Leah and I decided to trace out steps that Ivan had shown us and find the local back packers area. We found a local sandwich place and decided to order the one thing that looked familiar to us on the menu. It was decided that I would go and order food and with my broken Spanish I returned hoping that we’d get what I wanted. RESULT! Two chicken sandwiches, something to drink and unexpectedly more sauces than you can shake a stick at, not just your usual ketchup and mayo but chilli sauce, mustard, tartare sauce and some pink shit.
November the 15th
Decided to go into central Lima today following Ivans advice to not go there during the night and visit there in the day. It was cold this morning with plenty of cloud covering us, after another shit-your-pants taxi ride we got to central Lima to find it really warm and yes, I forgot to cover my bonce in sun cream and have burnt the bloody thing, people in the airport will have a good laugh at me now as I resemble a swan vesta match!
Central Lima is totally different to the side of the city were staying in, which seems to be the wealthy side of the city (known as the Miraflores.) With a contrasting type of people living there, for those of you who have stayed somewhere where “Spliff, Charlie my friend?” Are often asked of you then you’ll know what I mean. Central Lima also had an unhealthy amount of KFC’s, McDonalds, Norky’s and Pardo’s chicken outlets (Yes, I know. Couldn’t get over it! Somebody tell Matthew that his cough his famous over here!)
Leah and I have quickly worked out that Health & Safety is optional in Peru, people cut the grass and clean the sides of the motorway without closing a lane. In fact, seeing a woman running across a lane to pick up a bottle of pop without any care for her own life, shows true dedication. Can’t imagine that happening back home, can you?
However, the one thing I can’t get over is the cars, now as most of you know my old man is fastidious of his cars and it’s rubbed off on me but Jeff Owens scrap yard would have a field day here.  Most cars showing some signs of damage from a bump, few of them have a full set of brake or even side lights, indication doesn’t exist and cutting up someone is in fact an art. To be honest, the taxi driver we had coming home from central lima was aiming for a gold medal. His taxi resembled a yellow version of the “murf mobile” from Waynes World. Sporting proudly a First Aid box in the back window, to be honest once we were in it, I was slightly worried that it had been nicked after most of the wires from under the dash were on full display. Though I decided we were okay once I saw the keys and the picture of his daughter on the dashboard (No boys, I wouldn’t….)
Cuzco tomorrow with a 5am start is enough to get me to bed as soon as possible tonight! We do know that there are 13 of us on the trek, so that should be cool. Let’s just hope that altitude sickness doesn’t get to us and that my ankle holds itself together…

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